Gemstones are minerals valued for their extraordinary beauty and rarity that remind us of the planet’s magnificence and, at the same time, its delicate balance. As with most raw materials used in jewellery, the mining of coloured gemstones is associated with serious impacts and human rights violations in countries of the global south. The supply chain is complex and opaque, many intermediaries are involved, and the benefit to the countries of origin is very small.

However, artisanal mining of coloured gemstones is a fertile and hopeful area for the emergence of initiatives that provide responsible gemstones. A responsible gemstone is mined, cut and polished in safe and dignified conditions, respecting the rights of all those involved, without harming the environment. Its supply chain is short and transparent, and contributes to improving the well-being of mining communities and the economies of producing countries.

20 pieces inspired by the origin of gems and the sustainability of the creative process

From 7 to 17 November 2024, the Emilie Bliguet Ethical Jewellery Gallery in Barcelona will host the exhibition ‘Responsible Gems. Jewellers and students towards ethical jewellery’, a joint effort by the collective ORIGEN – Gold for Future, students and teachers from the art school La Industrial to show that it is possible to make jewellery with a positive impact based on the responsible origin and traceability of materials.

On behalf of the ORIGEN – Gold for Future collective, the exhibitors are the brands Adoro mi oro, Adriana Díaz H., Emilie Bliguet, ILFO eco jewels, JUiA jewels, Majoral, Marta Joieria Artística, Recién Llovido and Teresa Estapé. They feature a ring made of Fairmined certified gold or silver with a Wennick-Lefèvre sapphire from Madagascar as the main element.

On behalf of La Industrial, six teachers and five second-year students of artistic jewellery from the previous year are taking part in the exhibition: Beatriz Cobos, Dalia Jurado, Javiera Gaete, Jèssica Bellí, Neus Espinosa, Sònia Serrano, Carla Olmedo, Juan David Garcia, Irene Coy, Nilu Tohidloo and Oriol del Collado.

Their pieces have been developed with tourmaline quartz from Minas Gerais (Brazil) in cabochon and hexagonal cut, supplied by Ethical Gemstones Of The World, and Fair ASM Silver from the supplier Fairever from the Sotrami mining organisation in southern Peru. Copper for the alloy, brass for soldering and other materials used in the work (cords, chains…) are reused.

Photographs:

• Detail of the piece created by Teresa Estapé: 18q Fairmined white gold, Wennick-Lefèvre sapphire from Madagascar and mica.
• Piece by Silvia Valenciano (Recién Llovido): 18q gold and 925 Fairmined silver, Wennick-Lefèvre sapphire from Madagascar and fossil from the village of Balenyà.
• Piece by Adriana Díaz H: 18q Fairmined gold and greenish blue Wennick-Lefèvre sapphire from Madagascar.