RESPONSIBLE JEWELLERY

RESPONSIBLE JEWELLERY

ORIGIN AND TRACEABILITY OF MATERIALS

Global demand for silver stands at around 30,000 tonnes/year, while it is growing in all sectors and less than 20% of this global demand can be supplied by recycling. This means new silver has to be mined to meet 80% of the demand. Ninety per cent of this silver that is newly mined each year comes from large-scale mining, while ASM produces just 10 per cent. However, just as we saw in gold mining, ASM employs 90% of the people involved in this process.

Unlike what we observed in the case of the other core materials used in jewellery, barely any literature is available on the social and environmental impacts of silver mining. We believe that this may be related to the fact that it is a by-product of other mining activities, such as gold, zinc, lead or copper (approximately 72% of silver mining production). Hence, in order to get an idea of the socio-environmental effects that this mining may be linked to, we need to research what is happening in the main mining activities (see section on gold).

With regards to primary silver mining, which accounts for around 28% of total production, we have managed to flag up some issues despite the paucity of information. After all, the negative effects of mining, particularly when it is industrial open-pit mining, are very similar, both from an environmental standpoint and the exposure of the population to the pollution generated, deforestation and irreversible damage to the territory, etc., as well as from a perspective of human rights in general and indigenous peoples’ rights in particular.

Responsible silver

Responsible silver is largely uncharted territory. While the vast majority of the metal is produced by large corporations, there are now a few responsible small-scale mining initiatives that work silver as a by-product of gold (there are no silver mines in ASM). They produce modest volumes of silver, but have sufficient capacity to supply small jewellery brands.

Firstly, it is worth highlighting Fairmined silver, which is mined responsibly by mining organisations in Colombia. It is certified and traded under Fairtrade criteria (decent and safe conditions, fair prices, no child labour, environmentally friendly, etc.). Different suppliers can provide us with this type of silver, as well as certain semi-finished products.

Another good choice for responsible silver sourcing is Fair ASM Silver, supplied by the German supplier Fairever. It comes from small-scale mining cooperatives, such as SOTRAMI in Peru, having a long-standing reputation for responsibility towards people and nature. These organisations follow the highest standards, and have been given numerous positive reports by NGOs, but the material is not certified by any third party. However, it features full traceability of origin, is comparatively affordable and larger batches can be refined in one go.

In the field of large-scale mining, there is the IRMA (Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance) certification for silver and other minerals. However, in our view, it is worthwhile to always go for ASM because of its positive impact on local communities.

Silver from urban mining can also be an alternative to look into: silver recovered from medical x-rays can be purchased. It is estimated that approximately 12 grams of silver can be obtained for every kilo of X-rays.

For further information, see the Responsible Jewellery Dialogues dedicated to fair silver.